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a photo taken when the blockade ended on the 11th May 1949Berliners have a knack of taking a very unconventional space and putting something in it that really doesn’t belong there. Funnily enough, it is this incongruity which makes something work.

A few weekends ago I went to the Berlin Festival – the only festival of its kind that takes place in Berlin itself. It is still a mere baby in comparison to other festivals. It started out in 2005 and this year was the first year that it was held at Tempelhof Airport.

Tempelhof was designed by architect Ernst Sagebiel and built by the National Socialists between 1936 and 1941. Its design is typical of the Nazi monumental style – all towering concrete pillars and carved eagles. The roof apparently was constructed to hold up to 100,000 people watching military parades and air shows. It is an important monument in many ways, perhaps the most important being that it played a key role in the airlifts of 1948/49. Nicknamed the ‘”Candy Bar Rescue”, more than 5,000 tons of food and supplies were airlifted by the Allies everyday into West Berlin via Tempelhof during this period. This was a reaction to the decision the Soviet Union took in June 1948 to cut off all surface rail and street access to and from the western half of the city. An airlift memorial (Luftbrückdenkmal) erected to pay tribute to the 79 pilots who lost their lives during the airlift can be found outside Tempelhof in a suburb called Zehlendorf. Above is a photo taken when the blockade ended on the 11th May 1949.

After years of debate, Berliners voted to close down Tempelhof on the 31st October 2008. Since then it has been re-invented as a venue hosting everything from concerts to exhibitions and was the location for this years Berlin Fashion Festival the ‘Bread and Butter’.
 
a pic of my friend Catie and I at the festivalThere were rumors afoot this year that one of two ‘Woodstock’ concerts commemorating the festival’s 40th birthday would take place at Tempelhof this weekend. There doesn’t seem to have been any word about it recently though and I couldn’t find anything on the Internet so I guess the promoters decided not to go ahead with it.
Anyway… back to the festival. The location was perfect and the vibe was very chilled out. People sprawled out on the concrete in the sun sipping beers or ambled between the two stages. The main stage was under cover in a huge airplane bunker and the second stage (which proved to be superior in every respect) was outside. The backdrop to the second stage was so beautiful – a blood-red moon rose in the blue-black sky and an old silver plane was lit up by rows of floodlights. One act I really liked were a group called Junior Boys, but the highlight for me was seeing Peter Doherty play. It was a brave move, I must say. At 12.30, when the crowd were buzzing from all number of chemical substances and a significant amount of alcohol, Mr. Doherty came out and played entirely on his own. Just him, his guitar, and two ballet dancers (?) who flitted about either side of him. He played tracks from his solo album Grace/Wasteland, playing continuously from one song into another without stopping. He was excellent. Here is ‘Arcady’ - a little taster from this album. Song: Arcady. and a pic of my friend Catie and I at the festival.
 
Peter Doherty - Arcady  
 
 
the Bunker in MitteLast Sunday, on the hottest Berlin day this year, I ventured into the cool vault of the Bunker in Mitte (Greifswalder Str. 23, 10437) to take a peek at the private art collection of Christian Boros. This is another example of taking a building with a significant (and significantly dark) history and converting it into a place of cultural value. The bunker reminded me of the Haus der Kunst in Münich – another example of repression (artistic and otherwise) being converted into artistic expression. The Nazis built the Bunker in 1941 to hold up to 2,000 local citizens. After this, the Russian Army occupied it before it became a textile factory and then a banana factory (hence it is sometimes called the ‘Banana Bunker’). In 1992, it was transformed into one of Berlin’s most infamous techno/fetish clubs before Boros bought it for a steal (our guide said that he bought it from the city for €1!), and converted it into a gallery space to house his private collection. He also converted the roof of the bunker into an ultra-modern penthouse apartment where he lives with his wife. Not a bad place to lay your hat, I must say.
 
In order to view the collection, you have to book about two months in advance. It is well worth it though. The collection itself is very modern and some pieces were slightly inaccessible in my opinion but the building itself was incredible. Such amazing clashes of darkness and light, of old and new. The ceilings of the original bunker cells have been lifted to make the gallery rooms more spacious, but you can see where the existing ceilings would have been. The paintwork on the walls also reveals the colourful history of the bunker – grey concrete, layered with fluorescent splashes and black from its techno days and then bleeding into the new white of the gallery.

This week, I also went to the Martin-Gropius-Bau (Niederkirchnerstraße 7 | Ecke Stresemannstr. 110 10963 Berlin) to see an exhibition on Le Corbusier – the famous French architect, writer and artist. The exhibition displayed the genius of the man and his vision and combined sculpture, paintings, drawings, architecture and furniture. If you haven’t seen any of his designs then check out this YouTube film.
 
residential apartment blocks called ‘unité d’habitation’Le Corbusier wanted to revolutionize modern urban living and designed a series of residential apartment blocks called ‘unité d’habitation’. One of these buildings was submitted for an architectural competition the ‘International Exhibition of Construction’ in Berlin in 1957 and was subsequently erected (and still stands) on a site south of the Olympic Stadium (Flatowallee 16 Berlin-Westend/U2 to Olympiastadium (Ost) or S-Bahn: Lines S75 or S9 to Olympiastadion). It is the only example of Le Corbussier’s architecture in Berlin.

Speaking of the Olympic stadium, Berlin has been taken over in the last week by hundreds of sickeningly fit people! I went to go for my usual run in Tiergarten the other day and was overtaken by professionals with legs that came up to my shoulders! Berlin is currently hosting the World Championships in athletics. I slipped away from the running track with my tail between my legs only to encounter the entire Korean athletic team in the park down the road from me doing the splits on the lawn!! Talk about make a girl feel bad!
 

a modern twist and an angelic singerGig-wise, I went to see The Whitest Boy Alive play an ‘underground’ gig on Sunday afternoon in the sweltering heat. They were playing at ‘Tape Club’, a huge industrial block of land just near the Haptbanhof. Everyone there was way too cool for school. In fact, I don’t know what is happening in other cities, but Berlin seems to have been gripped by geek-fever! Every man, regardless of how sharp his eyesight is, is wearing thick black-rimmed glasses and 70s flared pants. I spotted these geeks last weekend at a bar and last night they turned up again at the Astra when I went to see Beirut. Maybe it had something to do with the fact that Beirut themselves are all a bit geeky? But simultaneously so cool. The Astra in Friedrichshain (Revaler Str. 99, 10245) was the perfect venue for them; retro and run down. The band themselves were excellent – like a gypsy band with a modern twist and an angelic singer (Zach Condon, pictured). Gotta love this city!

Tchoos!

 

P.S Word on the street is that David Bowie’s Space Oddity/Station to Station albums are to be re-issued this month. Very exciting. It has been 40 years since the release of ‘Space Oddity’, 40 years since the first moon landing and 40 years since Woodstock. That’s a lot to celebrate!

 
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