Berliners
have a knack of taking a very unconventional space and putting
something in it that really doesn’t belong there. Funnily
enough, it is this incongruity which makes something work.
A
few weekends ago I went to the Berlin Festival – the only
festival of its kind that takes place in Berlin itself. It is
still a mere baby in comparison to other festivals. It started
out in 2005 and this year was the first year that it was held
at Tempelhof Airport.
Tempelhof
was designed by architect Ernst
Sagebiel and built by the National Socialists between 1936
and 1941. Its design is typical of the Nazi monumental style
– all towering concrete pillars and carved eagles. The
roof apparently was constructed to hold up to 100,000 people
watching military parades and air shows. It is an important
monument in many ways, perhaps the most important being that
it played a key role in the airlifts of 1948/49. Nicknamed the
‘”Candy Bar Rescue”, more than 5,000 tons
of food and supplies were airlifted by the Allies everyday into
West Berlin via Tempelhof during this period. This was a reaction
to the decision the Soviet Union took in June 1948 to cut off
all surface rail and street access to and from the western half
of the city. An airlift memorial (Luftbrückdenkmal) erected
to pay tribute to the 79 pilots who lost their lives during
the airlift can be found outside Tempelhof in a suburb called
Zehlendorf.
Above is a photo taken when the blockade ended on the 11th May
1949.
After
years of debate, Berliners voted to close down Tempelhof on the
31st October 2008. Since then it has been re-invented as a venue
hosting everything from concerts to exhibitions and was the location
for this years Berlin Fashion Festival the ‘Bread
and Butter’.
There
were rumors afoot this year that one of two ‘Woodstock’
concerts commemorating the festival’s 40th birthday would
take place at Tempelhof this weekend. There doesn’t seem
to have been any word about it recently though and I couldn’t
find anything on the Internet so I guess the promoters decided
not to go ahead with it.
Anyway…
back to the festival. The location was perfect and the vibe was
very chilled out. People sprawled out on the concrete in the sun
sipping beers or ambled between the two stages. The main stage
was under cover in a huge airplane bunker and the second stage
(which proved to be superior in every respect) was outside. The
backdrop to the second stage was so beautiful – a blood-red
moon rose in the blue-black sky and an old silver plane was lit
up by rows of floodlights. One act I really liked were a group
called Junior Boys, but the highlight for me was seeing Peter
Doherty play. It was a brave move, I must say. At 12.30, when
the crowd were buzzing from all number of chemical substances
and a significant amount of alcohol, Mr. Doherty came out and
played entirely on his own. Just him, his guitar, and two ballet
dancers (?) who flitted about either side of him. He played tracks
from his solo album Grace/Wasteland,
playing continuously from one song into another without stopping.
He was excellent. Here is ‘Arcady’ - a little taster
from this album. Song: Arcady. and a pic of my friend Catie and
I at the festival.
Peter
Doherty - Arcady
Last
Sunday, on the hottest Berlin day this year, I ventured into the
cool vault of the Bunker in Mitte (Greifswalder
Str. 23, 10437) to take a peek at the private
art collection of Christian Boros. This is another example
of taking a building with a significant (and significantly dark)
history and converting it into a place of cultural value. The
bunker reminded me of the Haus
der Kunst in Münich – another example of repression
(artistic and otherwise) being converted into artistic expression.
The Nazis built the Bunker in 1941 to hold up to 2,000 local citizens.
After this, the Russian Army occupied it before it became a textile
factory and then a banana factory (hence it is sometimes called
the ‘Banana Bunker’). In 1992, it was transformed
into one of Berlin’s most infamous techno/fetish clubs before
Boros bought it for a steal (our guide said that he bought it
from the city for €1!), and converted it into a gallery space
to house his private collection. He also converted the roof of
the bunker into an ultra-modern penthouse apartment where he lives
with his wife. Not a bad place to lay your hat, I must say.
In
order to view the collection, you have to book about two months
in advance. It is well worth it though. The collection itself
is very modern and some pieces were slightly inaccessible in my
opinion but the building itself was incredible. Such amazing clashes
of darkness and light, of old and new. The ceilings of the original
bunker cells have been lifted to make the gallery rooms more spacious,
but you can see where the existing ceilings would have been. The
paintwork on the walls also reveals the colourful history of the
bunker – grey concrete, layered with fluorescent splashes
and black from its techno days and then bleeding into the new
white of the gallery.
This week, I also went to the Martin-Gropius-Bau
(Niederkirchnerstraße
7 | Ecke Stresemannstr. 110 10963 Berlin) to see an exhibition
on Le Corbusier
– the famous French architect, writer and artist. The exhibition
displayed the genius of the man and his vision and combined sculpture,
paintings, drawings, architecture and furniture. If you haven’t
seen any of his designs then check out this YouTube film.
Le
Corbusier wanted to revolutionize modern urban living and designed
a series of residential apartment blocks called ‘unité
d’habitation’. One of these buildings was submitted
for an architectural competition the ‘International Exhibition
of Construction’ in Berlin in 1957 and was subsequently
erected (and still stands) on a site south of the Olympic Stadium
(Flatowallee 16 Berlin-Westend/U2 to Olympiastadium (Ost) or S-Bahn:
Lines S75 or S9 to Olympiastadion). It is the only example of
Le Corbussier’s architecture in Berlin.
Speaking
of the Olympic stadium, Berlin has been taken over in the last
week by hundreds of sickeningly fit people! I went to go for my
usual run in Tiergarten the other day and was overtaken by professionals
with legs that came up to my shoulders! Berlin is currently hosting
the World
Championships in athletics. I slipped away from the running
track with my tail between my legs only to encounter the entire
Korean athletic team in the park down the road from me doing the
splits on the lawn!! Talk about make a girl feel bad!
Gig-wise,
I went to see
The Whitest Boy Alive play an ‘underground’ gig
on Sunday afternoon in the sweltering heat. They were playing
at ‘Tape
Club’, a huge industrial block of land just near the
Haptbanhof. Everyone there was way too cool for school. In fact,
I don’t know what is happening in other cities, but Berlin
seems to have been gripped by geek-fever! Every man, regardless
of how sharp his eyesight is, is wearing thick black-rimmed glasses
and 70s flared pants. I spotted these geeks last weekend at a
bar and last night they turned up again at the Astra when I went
to see Beirut. Maybe it had something to do with the fact that
Beirut themselves are all a bit geeky? But simultaneously so cool.
The Astra
in Friedrichshain (Revaler
Str. 99, 10245) was the perfect venue for them; retro and
run down. The band themselves were excellent – like a gypsy
band with a modern twist and an angelic singer (Zach Condon, pictured).
Gotta love this city!
Tchoos!
P.S
Word on the street is that David Bowie’s Space
Oddity/Station
to Station albums are to be re-issued this month. Very
exciting. It has been 40 years since the release of ‘Space
Oddity’, 40 years since the first moon landing and 40 years
since Woodstock. That’s a lot to celebrate!